The door replacement process, step by step

A sill pan sits at the bottom of the opening and catches any water that gets past the door, directing it back outside. We install the sill pan first, then connect it to the housewrap so water runs from the wall onto the pan and out. Jamb flashing goes on next—vertical strips along each side that lap over the sill pan. Head flashing goes across the top, lapped properly so water running down the wall doesn't sneak behind it.

Why this matters: When flashing is missing or installed backward, water gets trapped behind the frame. By the time you notice—soft spots, mold—the damage is extensive.

The new unit goes into the opening and we check three things: level (head jamb), plumb (side jambs), and square (90° corners).

We shim the frame at hinge locations, lock areas, and every 12–16 inches along the sides and top, then fasten through shims into studs. Not over-tightening prevents the frame from bowing and keeps the reveal consistent—about the thickness of a nickel—all the way around.

Once the frame is fastened, we seal the perimeter gap with low-expansion foam to avoid bowing. Weatherstripping is then adjusted for even contact on all sides. Threshold pressure is set so the door bottom presses lightly—tight enough to seal, not so tight it wears prematurely.

Air‑sealing and proper weatherstripping make a door energy‑efficient. Good glass with poor seals still leaks heat in winter and lets hot air in during summer.

It starts with an in-home consultation. We measure the existing door and opening, look at frame and threshold condition, and talk about why you're replacing the door—damage, outdated style, poor energy performance, or security concerns.

Measuring the rough opening—the actual hole in your wall where the door goes—is critical. We measure width and height at multiple points because openings aren't always perfectly square. An opening that measures 36 inches at the top might be 36 and a quarter inches at the bottom. That quarter inch matters.

We also check

• Threshold condition — solid or rotted from water exposure?
• Frame squareness — are corners at 90 degrees or shifted from settling?
• Surrounding trim and siding — how the new door integrates with existing materials
• Interior and exterior clearances — will the door swing freely?
• During this visit, we review door styles and options. For entry doors, you'll choose between steel, fiberglass, or wood. For patio doors, sliding versus French doors. Glass options range from clear to frosted to decorative patterns. Hardware finishes should coordinate with your other fixtures.

  If you're in an HOA, bring those guidelines. We can help navigate approval if needed.

• What Preparation Happens Before Installation?
• Once you approve the project, we finalize measurements and create a detailed installation plan. Scheduling usually happens 2–4 weeks out, depending on door availability. Custom doors with specific glass or finishes can take longer.

Before installation day

• Clear the work area — move furniture and items within a few feet of the door
• Protect valuables — wall hangings near the door should come down temporarily
• Plan for access — secure pets in another area; installers move in and out frequently
• Disable door alarms — sensors get removed and reinstalled on the new door
• We protect your floors with drop cloths and lay tarps outside for debris.

• Tighten hinge screws; confirm swing is smooth
• Install deadbolt and lockset; align strike plate; test engagement
• Adjust storm door closer if applicable

Sliding patio doors

• Adjust roller height so the door glides smoothly
• Verify latch and lock engagement

French doors

• Adjust the center seal where doors meet
• Tune multi‑point locks at top, middle, and bottom

We test everything multiple times—open, close, lock, unlock—and adjust on the spot.

Trim, finish & cleanup

Interior casing covers the gap between frame and drywall; exterior casing covers the gap to siding or brick. Pre‑finished doors install quickly; primed units may be painted or stained. Caulking happens last at casing-to-siding seams, threshold-to-subfloor, and other joints.

All debris is removed and the work area is cleaned before the final review.